Luxor: Karnak Temple, Colossi of Memnon, Valley of the Kings, and Other Sites You Won’t Want to Miss

Luxor, Egypt
By Kate Cypcar

Luxor, the New Kingdom’s ancient capital of Thebes (1567-1085 BC) is Egypt’s second most visited attraction (only the Pyramids could one-up this ancient phenomenon), and ranks as one of the oldest tourist destinations. Due to the overwhelming number of well-preserved sandstone temples and elaborate tombs, many consider Luxor to be the world’s greatest open-air museum.

Interestingly enough, what most visitors today know as Luxor is actually three separate areas – the town of Luxor itself, the village of Karnak a couple of miles to the northeast, and the monuments and necropolis (cemetery) of Ancient Thebes on the West Bank of the River Nile. Luxor is small enough to explore on foot (depending on how you tolerate the heat and the hassle), large enough to feel like there’s always something to see or do, and requires a week or more to really cover all its bases. Tourist season extends from October to March, peaking around Christmas and the New Year. Weather during this time of the year is moderate and sunny. In the summer, the midday heat can be unbearable, but if you can handle it, the crowds taper off, allowing you to visit the ancient wonders without the swarms of tourists.

Luxor and the East Bank

Luxor Temple
Luxor Temple is dedicated to the three Theban gods, Amun, Mut and Khonsu. The entrance to the temple is through the First Pylon (approach from the Avenue of the Sphinxes). Luxor Temple is simpler and more coherent than Karnak Temple, probably due to the fact that fewer pharaohs were involved in its construction (namely Amenophis III of the 18th Dynasty and Ramses II of the 19^th Dynasty). Although it is smaller and more compact than Karnak, Luxor Temple is well preserved, as it was under sand until the late 19^th century. It is particularly striking at night and is one of the few ancient sites that permit a post-sunset wander. Budget E£20 (students pay E£10) for entry.

Karnak Temple
Located 2.5 miles north of the Temple of Luxor, the Karnak Temple complex is the largest pharaonic monument in the country after the Giza Pyramids. The extent, scale, and quality of the remains are astonishing. The Karnak site covers an area large enough to accommodate ten European cathedrals! The complex’s temples vary greatly in style because they were constructed over a period of 1,300 years. Their only common theme is worship of the Theban Triad of gods, Amun, Mut and Khonsu. At the heart of the complex is the enormous Temple of Amun, which was altered and extended by successive pharaohs. Included in and surrounding the main temple are numerous small but magnificent ones including the Temple of Tuthmosis III, the Temple of Ramses III, and the small Shrine of Seti II. Allow at least two half-days to explore. Most likely you’ll be overwhelmed the first day, and will need the second to enjoy a more detailed view. Tickets are E£20 (E£10 at the student rate) and must be bought at the kiosk outside.

Colossi (gigantic statue) of Memnon
These two gigantic sandstone colossi, which are located on the main road 1 mile from the river, represent Amenhotep III (1417-1379 BC). They once stood in front of his mortuary temple that has since collapsed and was plundered for stone long ago. Although the faces and crowns have been eroded, the two colossi make a strange 64-foot high spectacle seated in the midst of the desert and are well worth a visit.

West Bank and Theban Necropolis (Ancient Thebes)
Between sunrise and 1 p.m. is the ideal time to visit the West Bank; after 1 p.m. the heat is incredible. Your travel options from the East to the West Banks of the River Nile are: ferry or felucca (the usual way to travel as a result of the heat), car/taxi, bicycle, donkey, or your own two feet. Bicycling gives you more time and frees you from the impatient harassment of a taxi driver. However, distances are long, so be sure you are up for it in the heat. Donkeys are recommended only for those who laugh in the face of awkwardness. If you choose to explore the necropolis by taxi or donkey, agree on a price beforehand and do not pay until the boy or driver fulfills his side of the bargain. Before crossing the river I’d recommend stopping by the tourist office in Luxor to arm yourself with the official rates for taxis, etc., in the city. Also be prepared to fork over some cash to take photographs or to use video cameras in certain areas of the necropolis. Prices range from E£10 (camera) to E£50 (tripod) to E£400 (video camera). No flash photography is permitted, so pack lots of 400 ASA film.

Valley of the Kings
The area became a burial site during the New Kingdom rule of Tuthmosis I (1525-1512 BC) in the hope that it would be safe from looters. The kings’ tombs are not actually confined to the single valley and it is believed that there may be others still waiting to be discovered. Those already discovered are numbered in the chronological order of their discovery rather than by location. Most of the discovered tombs are in the East Valley, although the Tomb of Ay in the West Valley (Valley of the Monkeys) warrants a look around. There was obviously no need, originally, for light in the tombs, but today a light source of some sort (a torch might make you feel more like Indiana Jones) is a must – it will enable you to admire the wall decorations and illustrations, and to avoid tripping on the uneven ground (extremely important)! Allow a day to explore in some comfort and a little depth. Tickets may be bought directly outside the site. Entry is E£20 and gives you access to three tombs of your choice, except for Tutankhamen’s tomb that costs E£40 extra. If you want to see more than three tombs you’ll just have to buy another ticket at E£20.

Valley of the Queens
It was once known as the ‘Place of Beauty’ and was used as a burial site for officials long before the queens and their offspring, who had previously been buried with their husbands, began to be buried there in the 19^th Dynasty (1320-1200 BC). It contains more than 80 tombs but many are still unidentified. The most famous tomb is that of Ramses II’s wife Nefertari. One E£12 ticket gives entry to three tombs of your choosing, while a separate ticket priced at E£100 is required for tomb 66 (Nefertari); that is if it is open. It was closed for a time, but should have reopened in late 2004.

Tombs of the Nobles
The entry fee is E£12 for each pair of tombs. While the pharaoh’s tombs were hidden away in the Valley of the Kings and were dug deep into the valley rock, those of the most important nobles were built at surface level overlooking the temples of Luxor and Karnak across the river. Their shrines were highly decorated but the poor quality limestone made carved reliefs impossible. Instead the facades were painted on plaster. Artists dedicated less space to rituals from the Book and more to representations of everyday life and their impressions of the afterlife. The tombs of the nobles are found in a variety of sites throughout Egypt but none are better preserved than those on the West Bank of the River Nile at Luxor. Visit Rekhmire and Sennufer, Ramose and Nakht to get a taste of the differing types of tombs if your time is limited.