Rising above the South Alps – Hiking Mt. Tutoko
New Zealand
By Chris Allen
Mt. Tutoko rises 2746 meters from the coastline far below. As part of the Darran Mountain range on the southern island, Mt. Tutoko is included in the Fjordland National Park as well as the UNESCO World Heritage Area – Te Wahipounamu. This is one of the largest national parks in the world and boasts over 26,000 square kilometers of steep jungle, snowy mountains, and rugged coastline.
The routes up the mountain all start from the same point, Milford Sound. From here it is a day’s hike to a base camp on the Ngapunatoro Glacier or the South East Ridge. Helicopter shuttles to base camps are also an option to those who are interested. Both routes are rated as NZ grade 14 ascents because of their technicality.
The Ngapunatoro Glacier, or Northwest Ridge, route is all rock during the late season but mixed with snow and ice earlier. It is an easier climb even though the difficulty reaches a NZ grade 14; there is only a short section where it is this difficult.
On the Southeast Ridge there are three rocky steps to navigate with steep snow arêtes following. The summit is not far past. Both of these routes can take three to four days for a round trip depending on weather and ability. An ascent and return averages about 14 hours and so requires a high level of endurance.
The location of Mt. Tutoko means it is part of a maritime weather pattern which can often be dangerously unpredictable. Commercial outfits guiding the mountain suggest allowing a day or two extra as a safety cushion for ascent attempts because of erratic weather patterns.
It is highly recommended that those attempting to summit Mt. Tutoko have experience climbing mountains of similar size, especially those in the “Southern Alps” area in New Zealand. A high level of endurance and flexibility are also encouraged when attempting to summit.
Guided climbs can be secured in Milford Sound, though no special permits are required to attempt a summit on your own. All that is required is some experience and good weather. It is a good idea to speak with a few of the local guides for conditions however, as they can be unpredictable at times.
Obtaining a visa is relatively easy, and made easier through New Zealand’s “visa free” program. Check New Zealand’s website to see if you are a citizen of a “visa free” country. If not there are some requirements you have to meet, including proof of plans to leave the country, a passport valid three months after you plan to leave, proof you have the funds to support yourself in New Zealand, and are of good health and character. More information can be found on the New Zealand immigration website.
