The White City: A Vacation From Vacation

Arequipa, Peru
By Jared Johnsen

Nicknamed the “La Ciudad Blanca” or “the white city,” Arequipa seems to almost scintillate at its foundations, which are composed of a white volcanic stone named sillar. Never before has white been so piercingly bright as in the spires and pillars of this colonial town; the presence of all colors in white seems to me a perfect complement to the cool blue hues of a dry and empty sky above. Aside from its fair skin, it is the opposite of Lima — generally, a good thing. No smog, less noise, friendly people. And it doesn’t have half the tourists that swarm the streets of Cusco. This is not to say that Arequipa is a quiet gem, undiscovered by others. You will find plenty of other tourists in this town and the locals view it as the commercial center of the south that it is. But there is an unshakable, small-town quaintness to this place, in which people live and go to work and don’t seem overly concerned with the tourists walking by. What does all this mean? It is a brilliant place to settle in while you laze about the plaza, visit colonial houses and cathedrals, swig Arequipeña at the local pub, and head out into the Colca Canyon for a trek into the world’s deepest canyon.

What to do in Arequipa

Though it can’t quite match up with the quantity of Cusco’s colonial architecture, this city does boast some of the countries best preserved structures. Several colonial buildings edge the streets of this old city, many of which are near the Plaza de Armas. The plaza itself is a beautiful space gardened with palms and a center fountain. One of the façades facing it is the city’s largest cathedral, spanning one entire side of the plaza. Founded in 1612 and rebuilt in the 19^th century after an earthquake, this massive cathedral is only surpassed in height by the overlooking volcano Misti in the background. On the other three sides are stone structures, opulently arcaded with beautiful archways and second-story terraces. The entrees offered at these premium seats are over-priced, but the drinks are well worth the amazing views offered—especially at dusk when the white buildings are set ablaze with the last rays of the sun.

There are a great number of historic buildings including colonial houses, 17^th century churches, and a Franciscan monastery. Many deserve a visit. It is worth mentioning here, however, the Santa Catalina Convent. This is perhaps one of the most unique historic sites available in Arequipa. Opened to the public in the 70s and beautifully refurbished with period furniture, this convent was once the home of some 450 nuns living in total seclusion. The few remaining nuns have moved to one section allowing visitors a peak at the cobbled streets, cloisters, and buttressed houses inside. Also, the old district of town is well worth a look. There is a mass of tiny houses stacked along ascending roads in San Lázaro in addition to the site of the old Capilla de San Lázaro. And the beer? Pick your favorite spot in the sun.

Just out of town

Great Condor Bird

One of the major excursions done from this town is to the Colca Canyon. This canyon delves twice as deep as the Grand Canyon, and brings thousands of trekkers down (and up) its cliff walls every year. This adventure of stunning scenery and giant condors can be arranged with any of the tourist agencies on Santa Catalina just off the plaza or done independently — with a bit of planning. Most treks include a stay at the bottom of the canyon in a primitive thatched hut with access to a pool — a true delight after a few hours of hiking in the sun. From the bottom, most return treks begin at 4 a.m. to avoid the powerful sun. On my trek, the guide fearlessly illuminated the way up the canyon with a lighted candle affixed to the inside of a plastic two-liter bottle. He told us that when the candle ran out, we would be at the top and the sun would be up. Well, the candle held out and sun held off for about 3 1/2 uphill hours. And like the inverse of the old adage this part of the journey is inevitable; those who go down, must come back up. The good news is most tours give the option of an afternoon dip in a thermal hot springs that will sooth your weary limbs. But first, you must catch a glimpse of one of earth’s largest birds.

After making it out of the canyon, most tours head to the Cruz del Condor where visitors peer along with the first rays of morning sun into the deep canyon and watch the world’s largest birds ride the morning thermals. Gliding on a 10 foot wingspan, these giants scour the canyon walls in search of food effortlessly on a warm air current. If you haven’t seen them in the canyon yet, this daily spectacle is something you won’t regret attending.