Trekkers’ Dreams Come True in Peru
Cordillera Blanca, Huaraz, Peru
By Jared Johnsen
For many, a brief trip to Peru doesn’t extend much beyond a visit to the famed ruins of Machu Picchu, the Sacred Valley, and maybe a quick trip to the jungle – all in the southern end of the country. Yet, Peru has a lot more to offer those eager to experience more of the Andes. In one northern mountain range, hikers will find much of the rugged Andean scenery lined with ancient trails used by the locals who’ve survived in this harsh land for centuries. Visible at the edges of these trails are jagged peaks above 6,500 meters, five-year-old children herding sheep across golden fields, and monstrous mountain glaciers cracking and crumbling to the ground, resounding through the valley as thunder to the land. Some of these trails even lead to high-altitude base camps utilized by the many mountaineers who scale these white-coated peaks each year – that is, when they’re not in the Himalayas. Where is this Mecca for outdoor aficionados? Aptly named the Cordillera Blanca for its ever-white crowns, this range lies within reach from the community of Huaraz. It is from this mountain town – chock full of places to stay, gear to rent, and guides and porters for hire – that you may embark on your Andean adventure. So if you have more than a couple weeks of travel and are heading north from Lima, plan a week exploring the Cordillera Blanca; it is certain to be a crowning point of your journeys in Peru.
To reach this trekker’s paradise, it will take about seven hours by bus from Lima to the town of Huaraz – the main town in the valley. Any colonial charm here is markedly absent because of the 1970 earthquake that left half of town in ruin. Keep in mind though, it fared far better than many neighboring towns that were entirely leveled during the giant trembler. Still, the jutting peaks on either side of the town make it a pleasant and cozy town to be in, before and after trips into the mountains. Once here, you are in the middle of two ranges: the Cordilleras Blanca and Negra. The Cordillera Blanca runs north and south for almost 200 km. Alongside it to the west lies its cousin the Cordillera Negra, which rises to a lesser height of 4,600 meters and remains clear of snow year-round. The valley of the Rio Santa separates these two ranges and is known as the Callejón de Huaylas, or alleyway of Huaylas. While most hikes are done here on the Cordillera Blanca, there are several alternatives in the Cordillera Negra or surrounding ranges. One possibility is on the other side of the Cordillera Blanca to the east. A parallel valley there is flanked by another mountain range called the Callejón de Conococha. In addition, to the south lie the Cordilleras Huayhuash and Raura, both of which offer more spectacular high altitude trekking in lesser visited areas.
Fortunately, the dry time of year to hike these mountains happens to fall during the summer of the northern hemisphere. Between the months of May and September, these skies permit spectacular unclouded vistas and dry, warm days to hike in. The month of April can be alright as well as October, but not for mountain climbing. Bear in mind too, that if you don’t like big crowds, the middle of the season is going to be the busiest.
The Treks
Ask anyone, and you will hear that the Santa Cruz-Llanganuco and the Olleros-Chavin treks are the stars of the area. Both of these are certain to amaze and are popular for a reason. Various other options remain, however, and offer greater solitude as well. If, for example, you are here between mid-June and mid-August, you may find these first two trails more scenic of other hikers than you wish. In that case, head to Caraz and hike through the north end of the park from Hualcayán to Pomabamba. This hike offers fantastic views of Alpamayo. Or go to Yungay, from where you can hike to Laguna 69, which is located at the bottom of the Llanganuco valley. Many other options abound in the surrounding valleys. Ask around or chart your own trip. You will find many guides available in town who can cater to and advise about an individualized trip. There are also muleteers available, or arrieros, to take some of the burden off your back for around five to ten dollars a day. If this last option appeals to you, buy your map of the area from home or while in Lima. For some reason, quality maps are hard to come by in Huaraz. Please remember also, that many of these hikes bring you close to 5,000 meters (that’s almost 16,500 feet). Hence, acclimatization is necessary to ensure a healthy adventure.
Outside of Patagonia – a long journey to the south – these treks are perhaps the best in Andes. Missing out on them would be a shame for any mountain lover. Not only does the area offer spectacular views of high Andean peaks but a glimpse of local life among villages you will pass along the way. This is truly a hiker’s paradise.
